2/18/2024 0 Comments Macmaster carr cu alloy 101![]() take a few pics cause they always help with our conversations and especially if you have questions.ĪLL: I know some sellers think spray bombing a rusty old vise improves it's value, but honestly when I see a vise like this I offer less or just walk away. Yep many many members have turned that back piece 180 degrees, drilled a couple new holes and put their bullet vises back together and their vises have worked well for years now. in any case having screws would be a great upgrade for their vises moving on and for you and others anytime you take the vise apart. ![]() Tex: Wilton should have changed out those pins and put in screws from the beginning or maybe they liked replacing vises for those that broke their vises and this break wasn't covered under warranty. if you buy longish screws that can be turned out with an allen wrench, grind off the threads where they go into the vise nut and tap threads in the body of your wilton that should work nicely especially if you or the next person has to remove them to clean or repair the vise. TEX: there are more than a few member's posts on this thread and I heard KMScott wrote a blog about how to make new pins for wiltons. there are a few other good methods so just ask and post up several pics so we are sure we all know what you are looking to do. another method is to put the screw in your drill press or drill and use a file to grind an angle while the bolt is spinning. one method is to hold the screw's head up against your grinder's stone and grind an angle. it sounds like you just need to customize some jaw screws that most of us has done and we talk about a lot on this thread. I wouldn't weld any nuts or your jaws to your vise unless there was no other method to get them on. you can load up to 7 pics per post and they'll show up as thumbnails that a member can click on twice to get full size. NOT a hammer!Īnd you should see the gorrilla-hammer marks on the handles of my Parker 978, and several other large 6" and 7" vises.Ĭone: click on the paperclip just above in the middle where you are writing your posts and attach pictures of your vises and other items sort of like how we attach pics to an email. I cannot fathom hitting a handle with a hammer, it's going to be springy, so if you want it tighter use muscle and body weight. ![]() This ability to destroy any tool is evident by all the bent handles and hammer-scarred handles on our vises. But also virtually any tool can be destroyed by heavy handed carelessness. Just like any tool, it can be used well and properly with some finesse and feeling. ![]() When the hydraulic press tells you it's bound or bottomed, you already have tons too much pressure on the joint. A hydraulic press is much more difficult to use, and very difficult to have any feedback or feel. Personally I LIKE using the vise: it provides a system where only two hands WILL do the job, and most importantly a good 'feedback' to me if the bearing cup binds, or bottoms agains the cross bar. As Outlawmws said, they will press in very easily if everything is aligned and no burrs are remaining. Then a brake cylinder hone inside the bores of the yokes. Personally, I use a torch to cut the center of the 'X' out, then the needle bearing caps push inward quite easily, I usually use an air chisel to push them in. I agree with Outlawmws that if they don't start to move easily, go to a hydraulic press. With Michigan salted winter roads, the U-joints are usually seriously rusted in place.
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